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Practical quality benefits for all to see

by editor
01 November 2013
in English
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How USTER® STATISTICS can be applied to eradicate common fabric defects such as pilling and uneven appearance.
Ev­erybody knows USTER® STATISTICS – the globally-established benchmarks for the textile industry. But how are they used se­in practice, and how do they influence the fabrics and garments we all wear every day? To put it another way, what would tex­tiles be like without USTER® STATISTICS? For the answers, it might be useful to start with an example (Figure 1) of a particularly trouble­some fabric defect that we are all familiar with: pilling (sometimes called ‘bobbling’) – the appearance of little balls of fuzzy fiber on the surface of a garment. Obviously, pill­ing is a serious problem for the entire produc­tion chain, since the consumer’s dissatisfac­tion with a product will quickly rebound on the retailer, clothing manufacturer, fabric producer and, ultimately, the yarn spinner.

Pilling: causes and prevention

When we look at an example of pilling, there is a simple statement we can make: “With USTER® STATISTICS, this wouldn’t have hap­pened.” In most cases, fabric defects can be traced back to the yarn – not neces­sarily ‘bad’ yarn, but usually yarn with the wrong quality specification for its intended end-use. With pilling, the cause is gener­ally a yarn which is too hairy. Defining the level of hairiness – the H value – in a yarn is achieved by measuring with the USTER® TES­TER 5, to assess the protruding fibers in the yarn. Spinners will carry out this routine under lab conditions, testing yarn packages with the optical sensors in the USTER® TESTER 5, at a speed of 800 meters per minute. This instru­ment tests a wide range of quality parame­ters, also including evenness and imperfec­tions such as thin places, thick places and neps. The numerical H value resulting from the test is automatically matched against percentile levels in USTER® STATISTICS. These percentiles, known as USPsTM, show by how much the yarn is above or below a certain value, based on comparisons with what oth­er spinning mills worldwide are producing. For example, the 5% level means 5% of mills worldwide are producing yarn with equal or better quality levels for the particular pa­rameter being compared. The same applies to the limit levels of 25%, 50%, 75% and 95% shown up by the USTER® STATISTICS. In the fabric example illustrated here, the level of pilling was produced by a yarn with an H value of 7.71, equivalent to a USPTM of 95% – clearly showing that the yarn hairiness was too high for the end-use. To avoid pilling, a fabric specialist would be able to determine that, in this case, a yarn with hairiness USPTM of 50% would have been required.

Uneven fabric appearance: a clear view

bezA second example (Figure 2) shows another kind of defect which can also lead to lost customers at any stage of the manufactur­ing process: uneven fabric appearance with very visible faults and inconsistencies that are always going to be unaccept­able. This type of defect has a number of likely causes, all showing up in the yarn: too many neps in the raw material; too many short fibers in the yarn (possibly caused by incorrect settings at the combing ma­chine); poorly-maintained machinery; or defective rollers on the ring spinning ma­chine. And, once again, we can confident­ly say: “With USTER® STATISTICS, this wouldn’t have happened.” First, we have to accept that it is not possible to produce a ‘perfect’ yarn, even with excellent modern technol­ogy. To eradicate the kind of unsatisfac­tory uneven fabric appearance seen in this example, we must focus on the yarn qual­ity parameter known as CVm, for Coeffi­cient of Variation of mass. Experience has proved that this characteristic strongly im­pacts on how we can expect the finished fabric to look. Here also, the USTER® TESTER 5 provides the vital test data, derived from its unique capacitive measuring system. And here again, the correlation with USTER® STA­TISTICS percentiles is critical to understand­ing and controlling the yarn properties to ensure a satisfactory fabric appearance. For most fabrics, a 50% USPTM level for CVm is likely to give an acceptable result, while certain types of more critical woven or knit­ted structures call for a CVm around 25%. Even 75% CVm values might work for less-demanding fabric needs. Beyond that, however, there is a serious risk of uneven fabric appearance. In our example here, the measured CVm value of 13.9 translates into a USPTM of 80% – explaining why the fabric obviously does not make the grade in terms of appearance.

Yarn profiles: specifying quality objectively

bez2Today, quality-conscious spinners take ad­vantage of this connection between CVm levels, USTER® STATISTICS and fabric appear­ance to define the required CVm level and USPTM value in advance of a yarn contract. This approach, with close collaboration be­tween the yarn producer and the user, is part of an overall specification known as a yarn profile, covering all the appropriate quality parameters. In this way, both parties can be confident that the yarn will precisely match the requirements of the intended fabric ap­plication. It takes the guesswork out of a business agreement, and fosters good rela­tionships between customer and supplier all along the chain. The examples given here underline the real and practical advantages USTER® STATISTICS bring to the textile industry. The basis for these benefits is a substantial and extensive project – running over five or six years – to prepare each edition of USTER® STATISTICS. It involves the thorough collec­tion and testing of several thousand sam­ples, carefully targeted to be representative of worldwide textile production capacities. The results are fed into unique data analysis software for interpretation and calculation of the percentile curves. Finally, the USTER® STATISTICS are issued in the form of powerful interactive software, accessed via the inter­net or on CD. USTER® STATISTICS – a powerful and practical quality resource, freely avail­able for all, helping the textile industry to deal with pilling and uneven fabric appear­ance – and much more besides.

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